Two-thirds of your wardrobe is made from oil

Global Major Fibre Types from 1960
Global Major Fibre Types from 1960

In 1960 nearly all our clothes (95%) were made from natural fibres. By 2023 synthetic fibres grew from just 3% in 1960 to 68% in 2023, from less than 700 tonnes to 85 million tonnes/year according to a Nova Institue report. So it is probable that two-thirds of the fabric in your wardrobe is made from oil. Most of us have not noticed this change, as synthetic fabrics are often mixed with natural fibres to create fabrics like poly-cotton which offer the breathability of natural fibres and are easier to wash and iron. While this strategy of hybridisation has been a huge win for the petrochemical industry it is a disaster for the planet, not only does the production of these fabrics cause pollution but they continue to cause environmental impacts during use (with laundry a major source of microplastics entering our waterways) and even when they are disposed of – as they are most likely to end up in landfill.

In mid-March, the Cellulose Fibres Conference organised by the Nova Institute will hold their annual conference in Cologne to discuss a more sustainable way forward for the industry. In fact, expanding the production of cellulose fibres, including viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and cupro, is the only realistic was to address this problem. Expanding cotton production consumes too much water and bast fibre production (jute, flax, hemp, ramie, and kenaf) is limited by cost and technical issues. While there are exciting developments in biosynthesis these are off a very low base and will take decades to mature to reach industrial-scale production.

Meanwhile, cellular fibre production has expanded slowly over the years and will reach 11 million tonnes by 2030. As the Nova Institute notes, ‘cellulosic fibres are the only bio-based and biodegradable fibres that cover a wider range of properties and applications and can rapidly increase their capacity’. Raw materials include virgin wood and all types of cellulosic waste streams from forestry, agriculture, cotton processing waste, textile waste and paper waste, much of which is FSC certified (certification confirms that the forest is being managed in a way that preserves biological diversity and benefits the lives of local people and workers while ensuring it sustains economic viability).

Optimistically the Nova Institute concludes, ‘the sustainable textile industry of the future will be built on a foundation of cotton fibres and fast-growing cellulose fibres, later strongly supported by bio- and CO2-based synthetic fibres (biosynthetics), and high recycling rates for all types of fibres. This combination can eventually replace most fossil-based synthetic fibres by 2050.’

This report focuses on the supply side but, for it to succeed, demand for these materials must also increase. Design can take a lead here – specifying cellulose-based fabrics for upholstery and soft furnishings. To achieve performance targets these fibres might need to be blended, for example, pure cellulose fabrics may not hold up well to heavy use, but blending with polyester, nylon, or acrylic can improve durability. While such hybridisation creates disposal problems at the end of life, in the short term, reducing demand for synthetic fibres eliminates the demand for the significant quantities of fossil fuels used in their creation.